RESEARCHING VIETNAM ONE BITE AT A TIME AT JC’S PHUONG NAM

Sometimes life’s greatest gifts appear in the most unexpected places.

But, let’s be real: walking the backstreets of Johnson City, one might be wary of strange buildings, among other things. Even so, a treasure lies just across the street from the Schorr Family Firehouse Stage, not too far from Spool Mfg., in the form of a mysterious but unassuming edifice. Phuong Nam is more than meets the eye- its plain exterior belies its delectable Vietnamese offerings- food so good that this writer has returned more than a couple of times just to “do research.”

Upon entering Phuong Nam (formerly Mekong, now under new ownership for about three years), you might be surprised with the fact that it is indeed a restaurant and not an abandoned warehouse. It has the vibe of the kind of place where you might attend a reception to celebrate a religious rite of passage, or your grandparents’ anniversary- a banquet hall, if you will- or a family-owned restaurant, which it is. But, ambiance be damned, the food is so good, and every entree on the menu is about $10!

When I first stumbled upon this place, it was a very hot day, and a friend and I were more than ready for brunch. I ordered a broken rice dish, complete with pork, Vietnamese meatloaf, and a sunny-side up egg. Now, of all of the dishes I’ve tried there (and there are many I still haven’t), the broken rice is my favorite. It is available in many variations (I recommend the House Special, #25), and I’m not sure what makes it so appealing. It must be the way they break that rice.

Speaking of things that are done in a special way over at Phuong Nam, their coffee is brewed to order- I’m partial to the Vietnamese iced coffee with condensed milk. It’s sweet, and it’s strong. If you suffer from caffeine sensitivity, proceed with caution. If not- go nuts; it’s amazing.

We’re lucky here in the Triple Cities- we have some really good Asian food at our disposal. What’s nice about Vietnamese is that it borrows from several cultures, resulting in food that is filling yet refreshing, featuring flavors of lemongrass, peanuts, cilantro, and lime. It’s never heavy; Vietnamese chefs generally use a minimal amount of oil and dairy, making their cuisine particularly healthy. When you receive your dish, it is finely seasoned and balanced in flavor. In fact, balance is especially important in Vietnamese cooking, with the philosophies based around yin and yang, as well as the five elements, playing into the selection and combination of ingredients.

While the dish that is you are served may be in perfect balance as deemed by the chef and tradition, the diner has the opportunity to customize the plate to their appetite’s content. You may start your meal with a plate of ingredients that are, more or less, segregated, and minimally seasoned (well, maybe not in the cases of the Vietnamese Yellow Curry or Lemongrass Stir Fry). But at each table, there are a plethora of sauces- from spicy Sriracha to an even hotter chili sauce to sweet, rich hoisin- to choose from, and by the time you’ve had your way with it, your meal has been customized to perfectly suit your palate.

On one return trip (more research) I ordered, at my server’s suggestion, the Special Vermicelli- #19 on the menu. Like all of their vermicelli dishes, it came with lettuce, bean sprouts, and toasted crushed peanuts, but this one was topped with crispy spring rolls, and grilled shrimp and pork. When it arrived, I was furnished with two more sauces (more sauces!) to choose from: a sweet and tangy vinaigrette, and a peanut sauce. I used them both. Bring it on!

I liked the way the spring rolls were sliced up in the dish- they became saturated with sauce and I enjoyed them in bite-sized pieces. And I can’t stress enough that the portions are generous without being gluttonous; filling but not heavy.

Another fantastic thing about Vietnamese food is that while it still may fall into the “exotic” category for some of us, it’s not so unusual in its flavor profiles as to be deemed inaccessible. In other words, it might be new to you, but you probably won’t have to acquire a taste for it, since it encompasses so many familiar cultural influences.

Something else to note, is that while pork is a major player on Phuong Nam’s menu, they have plenty of vegetarian options as well. There’s also no booze on the menu, but you can absolutely bring your own and the wait staff will gladly open your bottle and provide the glasses.

I’ll end my review with a cautionary tale: on my most recent visit to Phuong Nam, I ordered Pho (a rich noodle soup with vegetables and, oftentimes, beef, pronounced with a very short “o”), to go. I had planned on bringing across the street, to eat at my leisure, but not at my home. When I was handed by meal, there were three containers inside a bag: one filled with broth, one with veggies, and one with uncooked beef slices. I was informed I should boil the broth, then throw in the other ingredients.

Without the means to boil water, I wound up eating my pho in the restaurant, and it was delicious. In fact, it’s their most popular dish, so much so that they often run out of it. So, go ahead, order the pho, but don’t plan on bringing it to the bar or on the bus- you’ll just end up with a mess and some raw meat.

I’ve learned my lesson, and I plan to continue my research- I have yet to try to tamarind soup, and I haven’t even sipped the fresh-squeezed limeade! They don’t serve Banh Mi (traditional Vietnamese sandwiches), but they did at one point, so- who knows- maybe they’ll bring them back. There’s plenty of research to be done.

Don’t be afraid- delve into the depths of JC (or just grab a meal before a show at the Firehouse Stage). Phuong Nam is located at 29 Willow Street in Johnson City, of course. They’re open Monday through Saturday from 11:30am to 9pm, and from 11am to 8pm on Sundays. Phone them at (607) 766-9999, for visit them on Facebook. Students with valid ID receive a 10% discount!